April 19, 2008 – 7:58 pm
Suddenly it’s spring. Yesterday and today it got into the high 70s. Having lunch outside yesterday with coworkers I could feel a bit of sunburn.
I forgot to set the alarm a little later like I usually do on weekends, so off it went at 7:15. L. and I got up, got dressed, looked at the dishes in the sink and the blankets still stacked in the living room from her parents’ recent visit and we went around the corner to the old diner instead.
When we got back home it wasn’t even 9:30. We had the whole day open to us. It was too nice a day for the Whitney Biennial, too nice for projects around the apartment. We could get out. Should we go to Coney Island? To Central Park?
I know. The NY Botanical Garden up in the Bronx. How often are we up and ready to go out early enough to get to the Bronx by subway hours before lunch?
Just like when we went to the Zoo last year, we found it was a quicker trip than we imagined. Around 10:30 we were walking the eight blocks downhill along Bedford Av. from the Grand Concourse.
We haven’t been able to find the charger for the digital camera, so L. was hoping to find a disposable camera for the day. And maybe a chocolate malted. It was that kind of morning. Scanning the stores surrounding an intersection a block away from the park, we spotted a West African grocery store. In we went, L. making a beeline for the spices and me asking if they had any cookbooks. Of the three guys working there, who also seemed to have a moving business with ties to the African emigre communities in Maryland, one didn’t know of any cookbooks, the others had seen them for sale in Maryland, not so much in NYC, sorry. We asked for help picking a set of ingredients that would complete at least one coherent dish, since the store’s spices, starches, legumes and oils covered a stretch of the continent, most prominently the countries roughly from Ghana to Nigeria. This got them going. Peanut stews, goat soup with mackerel (made with “burnt” goat, not raw stuff), grilled meat rubbed with uziza, a peppery powder from a leaf, fish soup with ground crawfish. No, said one, you have to go to one of the restaurants around here, see what you like, then come back for ingredients. Are there any restaurants close to here? None to walk to. We got addresses and phone numbers for one in Harlem, one elsewhere in the Bronx.
In the end we walked out with the uziza, the ground dried crawfish, a bag of oat flour for fufu since it was higher in fiber than things like yam and cassava. We got a bottle of palm oil and a can of a ready-made palm paste that’s a foundation for some Ghanaian stews and a hassle to make from scratch and a couple of those super-hot scotch bonnet-y peppers which I remember going great with some West African stews I had years ago.
I carried it around for hours while we made our way around maybe a quarter of the Bortanical Garden, which is enormous and beautiful, from the 1902 crystal palace exhibition hall full of palm trees and rainforest foliage to the promenade lined with dozens of exotic tulip varietals and the stands of picture-perfect blossoming trees, petals drifting like snow in the warm summery wind.
By 2:30 we were flowered out but keen on coming back, and we left via the southern gate looking out on the Fordham campus. We walked maybe a half mile in an arc around Fordham to Arthur Avenue, one of the two intersecting main drags of the still fairly vital little Italy in the Belmont neighborhood. It’s changing, of course, like all of New York always is, but even with the ever-growing and slowly assimilating Albanian community and a clear influx of Mexicans, the dominant feel is still Italian and there is still an impossibly dense array of pork stores, pasta shops, Catholic knickknack emporia and above all, bakeries, possibly because the neighborhood’s Achilles heel, its remoteness from the subways, has served to buffer it from the gentrification and redevelopment that have coursed through so many other neighborhoods these last 15-20 years or so. We had some decent but not amazing mini pastries at Egidio, sampled some dryish but properly crisp and eggy egg bows/kichel from Gino and got a super loaf of pane di casa from the now-Albanian Terranova on 187th. The minute we paid for it and tore off a crusty, chewy hunk of it, I bought a bag of breadsticks and two of taralli, so by the time we made it to the Madonia on Arthur, we’d filled our sensible carb quota and had to leave it for next time, got a ball of a terrific kashkaval-like Italian cheese at Calandras, some marinated eggplant, a couple of ripe, red $1/lb. tomatoes, and headed home, exhausted. We did the dishes, straightened up a bit with energy we didn’t think we had, opened a bottle of red and sat down to a feast of the Italian finds.
We must have walked something like 5 miles.
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